Leashes, Harnesses, Collars

Come as you are – minus any prong, choke, pinch or shock collars and minus any retractable leashes. If it appears a new leash or harness will help you & your dog, you may try one in class.

LEASHES

A 6 foot leash is preferred. 4-5 is too limiting. Flexi’s are never recommended, they’re dangerous and reinforce pulling.

The leash I’ve used for 20+ years and stock at SMART DOGS is a 6′ COTTON leash. Unlike nylon, cotton will not slip nor burn the hand. This leash is strong yet light in hand. The clasps are also small & lightweight yet strong. I’ve never had one fail or break. For all Life With Dogs & Dog Sport training this leash is ideal.

Whatever leash you choose, for the dog’s comfort I prefer minimal weight. Leash not shackle. Should also be comfortable and not cumbersome in your hand.

Cumbersome leashes = awkward leash handling = slow progress.

CONTROL POSITION & LEASH HANDLING

Leash handling is a SKILL and it’s important for success.

Do not pop, yank or jerk on the leash.

To reposition your dog or encourage him to move with you always use your voice and /or a hand target. Leash pressure is a last resort but never will we pop, yank or jerk.

Be sure the leash isn’t tickling or otherwise annoying your dog’s body.

HARNESSES

Harnesses are optional but highly recommended. Get off the dog’s neck / throat!

Harnesses specifically designed for front-attachment, ie, leash attaches at dog’s chest area can be especially useful if you’ve inadvertently reinforced the behavior of pull-pull-pulling. NOTE, not all harnesses are specifically designed for front-attachment.S

SMART DOGS currently stocks 3 brands of harnesses:

BALANCE HARNESS

by Lori Stevens, marketed by Blue-9.

CASUAL Y PADDED HARNESS

by Hurtta.

SENSATION

by Softouch Concepts / NWP.

Benefits of each coming soon to this page, we can also discuss in comments or in person.

Proper fit is a must, if you’d like to try one in class I’m happy to assist with fitting.

NOTE, I do not recommend the Easy Walk carried at most big box stores. It has sag & play at the connection point (due to the martingale loop) resulting in poor fit and poor communication. Neither are desired.

COLLARS

Note, while SMART DOGS stocks leashes, harnesses, treat pouches, treats, toys, etc, we currently do not stock collars.

I recommend clasps over buckles. Clasps = easier to put on / take off, easier to adjust size, offer greater increments / range of adjustment. So many colors, patterns, fabrics. Pick your favorite just keep a proper fit.

Proper fit = you can slide a few fingers under the collar. Any more than that is too loose.

Depending on your dog’s build and coat, you might prefer a Martingale collar, aka “limited slip” (not shown). When properly adjusted, this collar tightens to the circumference of your dog’s neck but not to the point of choking(!). Martingale collars are good for dogs whose skull is more narrow than their neck, e.g., greyhound, whippet, and will not slip off the dog’s head. Can also help prevent crimping, breakage, matting of coat.

COLLAR TAGS, SILENCERS & CLIPS

Please consider minimum number of collar tags for the dog’s comfort – emphasis auditory. Their hearing is extremely sensitive.

For stealth mode there are collar tag “silencers” (not shown) basically a rubber ring or sleeve you position over the collar tag.

If you change collars frequently and / or compete in Dog Sports (collar tags not allowed in the ring) there are specialty carabiners that allow easy on & off of collar tags. Rubit’s is the brand in stock.

FYI to give my dogs’ neck & coat a break I remove their collars at bedtime